DARJEELING TEA: ORIGINS & THE STORY BEHIND THE NAME
DARJEELING TEA: ORIGINS
"The champagne of teas - A name earned, not given."
When you sip on a cup of Darjeeling tea, enjoying its mild muscatel notes, you are not just holding a mere cup of tea. You are holding an art form perfected over centuries of innovation and craftsmanship.
Darjeeling - The land of thunderbolts- is a small town nestled in the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas. Darjeeling is known for many things - the warm hospitality of its people, the sweeping views of Mount Kanchenjunga, but most importantly, its fabled and rich tea industry.
The rich and bountiful valleys of this region are home to some of the finest tea in the world. It is renowned for its mild floral and muscatel notes and a delicate golden and amber hue. The nutrient-dense soil, adequate rainfall, cool weather, and the high altitude of the region all contribute to the unique characteristics of Darjeeling tea.
Since its first conception, Darjeeling Tea has seen its highs and lows over the course of a century. Throughout, it has been a hub of innovation that has directly or indirectly shaped the global trends in the tea industry. To understand this further, we need to delve into:
THE ORIGINS OF DARJEELING TEA:
Back in the 19th century, the British Empire was at its zenith and was sitting at the core of a lucrative tea trade between Britain and its colonies. Loads of Tea Cargo were being loaded in the ports of Hong Kong into ships bound for London. However, beneath the surface of this bustling trade, the diplomatic relations between the two giants were steadily unravelling.
Darjeeling, back then, was a famous destination renowned for its cool climate, and soon the EIC began a massive project to build a tea industry in its fertile valleys from scratch. Dr Campbell, the first superintendent of Darjeeling town, is credited with planting the first seeds of Camellia sinensis var. sinensis (chinary tea bushes) in his Beachwood garden in 1841.
Following its success, the government set up many tea nurseries in the region. Soon, the first tea gardens sprang up in Aloobari and Pandam by 1864, mapped on the same blueprint of the estate model it had been honing in the plains of Assam for quite some time.
PERFECTING THE CRAFT:
Though the plantation techniques might have started in China, the major innovation in the industry came with the introduction of processing factories in the Indian estates. To be more specific, Makabari is one of the world's first commercial tea processing factories, built in 1859. Within the span of a few decades, numerous other tea processing units came into being, such as Okayti, which is still operational to this date.
Withering and oxidation were necessary for the leaves to survive the long, winding voyage from Darjeeling to Europe. These factories perfected this art, fueling a robust supply chain to fulfil the growing global demand. It became the heartbeat of the brand that was conquering the senses of tea connoisseurs around the world.
A vast majority of this tea made its way to the historic London auctions, from where it was distributed all across Europe. From Royalty to common folks, Europe had acquired a taste for tea, and Darjeeling back then served the finest of all. It had 3 major harvests in a year:
First flush - Darjeeling first flush is a delicate black tea consisting of tender tea leaves. It is harvested in spring and renowned for its light golden liquor, floral aroma, and a fresh flavor profile.
Second flush - Darjeeling second flush is a smooth black tea made from more mature leaves harvested in summer. It has a full-bodied smoothness and is celebrated for its signature muscatel flavor profile.
Autumn flush - Darjeeling autumn flush is a mellow black tea crafted from leaves harvested in autumn. It is full-bodied and gives a copper colored liqour that is very smooth with an earthy flavor profile.
THE PRICE OF PLENTY
The British left, but the tea remained. The majority of these estates came under Indian management, and the 1953 Tea Act tied them together under the regulatory jurisdiction of the Tea Board of India. This also coincided with the Green Revolution in India. As a result, chemical fertilisers and pesticides made their inroads into the tea gardens of Darjeeling.
The production soared, but one might argue that the quality declined. During the 1970's, the Soviet Union became one of the largest patrons of the Indian tea Industry. They preferred volume over delicate grading. So, the gardens of Darjeeling were supplemented with the bushes of the Assamica variety to meet the demand. Planters moved away from Darjeeling's core philosophy of producing premium teas in favour of mass production. In hindsight, this led to the degradation of fertile Darjeeling soil, the effects of which can still be felt to this day.
We as a civilisation have evolved with innovation and technology. This was viewed as no different during the time. However, it’s always a bad idea to interfere with nature. She runs her own course on her own time, like the rising & setting of the sun. She takes care of her own tea plants; we just have to follow her rules and enjoy the harvest.
TEA RENASCENCE
By the 1990's, the effects of chemical fertilisers were starting to show on the treasured soil of Darjeeling. Moreover, in the game of mass production, Darjeeling could not compete with the prices and volume of other regions such as Assam. So, the production practices once again shifted towards its core philosophy - quality over quantity with sustainable practices.
With the gardens focused once again on only producing quality leaves, century-old practices once again came to the forefront. With sustainability at its core, a new wave of innovation swept through Darjeeling that once again changed the landscape of the global premium tea market. Gardens started adopting organic farming, and more priority was given to pioneering new varieties of highly premium artisanal tea.
New varieties of Japanese Cultivar Yabukita and high - elevation, clonal bushes like AV2 were introduced to the misty slopes of Darjeeling. This cultivar has today become the gold standard for fine spring-harvested tea, known for its intense floral, citrusy, and muscatel flavours. Major innovation also came in the processing of the leaves. Precision-controlled, power-driven rollers and drying machines were introduced to preserve the natural qualities of the leaves. Inspiration was also taken from traditional processing techniques that work in unison with mother nature.
By delicately balancing sustainability, innovation, and the wisdom of its past, Darjeeling Tea was once again reinvented. Besides its world-renowned black tea, Darjeeling also produces a range of world-class artisanal teas, such as the Moonlight flush, and a wide variety of oolong and green teas.
Some of the finest artisanal teas for you to try today are:
Okayti White Oolong - A floral and creamy cup made with semi-oxidised silver tips. It's layered with notes of orchids, soft honey, and a delicate lingering finish.
Okayti Silver Needle - A rare white tea crafted exclusively from tender unopened tea buds. It has delicate notes of white flowers, fresh melon, soft honey, and comes with an exceptionally smooth finish.
Buddha Green Tea - A pure organic Darjeeling green tea that is exclusively hand-made. It is packed with antioxidants and exhibits marvellous natural and soothing earthy tones.
A NAME WORTH PROTECTING
Darjeeling tea holds the distinction of being the first product in India to receive a Geographical Indication Certification. India registered it as its first GI product in 2004, and the European Union granted it international Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status in 2011.
The GI certification indicates that Darjeeling Tea is an intellectual property that is legally registered under the Tea Board of India. Only the tea that originates from one of the 87 tea gardens within the Darjeeling district can be legally called Darjeeling tea.
This was a major landmark for the brand. Along with the name ‘Darjeeling ’, it was also the recognition of her bountiful environment, rich soil and climate, together with centuries of deep expertise in growing and processing tea by her inhabitants.
A STORY STILL BEING WRITTEN
Darjeeling tea is in a very precarious position today. We are currently witnessing irregularities in the established seasonal patterns of rainfall. This, combined with rising production costs and ageing tea bushes, has created a perfect storm for the seasoned tea planters of Darjeeling to navigate. Having said that, the one thing we know about this industry is that, like all things in life, it is constantly changing and evolving. Just like how the flushes from two vintages are never the same, Darjeeling tea is a story still being written, one season at a time.
Although production has seen a sharp decline, the quality is still undeniable. As a tea connoisseur myself, there is no denying the place Darjeeling tea has earned in tea heritage. From the delicate floral first flush to the prized muscatel of the second, and everything in between – white tea, oolong, green tea – Darjeeling still produces some of the finest teas of single-estate origin, prized by connoisseurs throughout the world. When it comes to tea, a classic Darjeeling vintage is in a class of its own.